Grrarr
August 23rd, 2009, 08:24 AM
Re-clearcoating your vehicle.<o></o>
How to make your baby shine, the way it was meant to, without having a complete paintjob.
<o>
</o>
By Grrarr.
<o>
</o>
First and foremost, allow me to preface this tutorial by letting you know one crucial thing. . . :
If you do not follow these steps very closely, you could very well ruin your clearcoats UV protective ability, it’s adhesion to your paintjob, and mainly just make a bad situation seem CLEAR-ly worse. ZING.
<o></o>
<o></o>
There are many ways to paint a car, and every single person, after a little trial and error can find their own way, and their own “comfort zone” holding a spray gun, so feel free to eventually change a few things around to suit your style if you’re doing more than just the occasional clearcoat to your own vehicle. However, there are guidelines that must NOT be changed in order to create a solid, worthwhile paintjob. If you are setting out on your own and would like a few tips on what steps here you shouldn’t be deviating from, feel free to ask me! But if you don’t listen, and get a crappy paintjob, don’t come crying to me!
<o></o>
Take in mind that after you finish your clearcoat, if you want a showroom shine, you'll have to refer to my buffing tutorial. . . So if you're going for the best shine you can, read both this tutorial and that one before choosing this as an option.
<o></o>
Now. . . here’s what you will need to get your clearcoat done and done:
<o></o>
1. Either buy or rent an air compressor, making sure that it is capable of supplying at least 12CFM (cubic feet per minute), and 50 to 60 PSI (Pounds per square inch). And make sure that the air that will be pumped into it is filtered!
2. A Gravity fed automotive clearcoat spraygun. (Yes, there's a difference between a clearcoat gun and a regular paint gun, the details of which you can ask me about if you wish)
3. Tack cloths (Most likely available at your auto supply store)
4. Whatever brand of Urethane enamel clearcoat you prefer, along with the required reducer and hardener. This is often a 10 to 1 to 1 mixture or so, so you won't need as much hardener and reducer as your clear.
5. 600 to 800 grit sand paper for both a d/a sander and handsanding. And a pack of 3m scotch brite pads, red is preferred, but grey will do. Most people prefer wetsanding paper, but either wet or dry is good. Any debate on this issue is simply debate, and a style based preference. But for this tutorial, get the wetsanding paper. It'll gum up less often, need changed less often, and though you'll need to completely dry the car afterwards, wet sanding is more forgiving, so you don’t' need to be good at sanding. 800 grit is preferred, though you'll need to degloss the area COMPLETELY.
6. A D/A sander. Air powered is better than electric. This is also rentable at your local parts store often.
7. Lint free paper towels.
8. Wax and grease remover.
9. A clean plastic container to mix your paint in, with half inch marks up the side. You can do this with a ruler, but some times containers come with these already.
10. A material that resists paint to use to mask off parts that you don't want painted. Masking paper, thin plastic, etc. . . No saran wrap, people. . . please. Wanna find out why? Why would you want to find out why?? Freak.
11. AUTOMOTIVE masking tape. I repeat. AUTOMOTIVE. If you use house paint masking tape, you'll be kicking yourself after the clearcoat goes straight through the tape and dissolves the adhesive, and you end up with a sticky mess that clouds, hardens, and is just a piece of work. . .
12. Razors! Yes, you're clumsy. So be careful, son! No turning back now!
Most crucial:
13. A clean, as dust free as possible place to spray. NO sanding in this area. NO. That's a bad greasemonkey! For those of you with a garage but no spray booth, attempt to rent time in a spray booth at a local place with a spray booth if possible. This will make things extra easy.
However if you do not have this luxury, follow these steps:
-1. Cover everything in your garage with 1 mil plastic availible at lowes, home depot, etc., EVEN your floor, windows, everything but the door to get yout car -in.
-2. Get four particulate box type filters, two box fans.
-3. Set two of your your filters into a window onto your plastic and trace around both, remove filters, cut about an inch in from the lines in the center of -your trace lines, and then put the filters back up and tape them onto your plastic AND the window so they stay there firmly.
-4. When your car is prepped and ready (I will say later when you've reached this step), pull in your car, put both bow fans down at both sides of the garage -door upright and blowing outwards from your garage, put your garage door down until it's resting lightly onto the fans.
-5. take more plastic and tape is around the entire garage opening FIRMLY. Don't skimp.
-6. place your remaining box filters in front of the box fans, and repeat the tracing process, and the cutting process. Then tape them to the fans FIRMLY, -and tape the plastic to the outside of your filters also FIRMLY. Voila! Instant temporary spray booth.
14. Get a face mask. Dual cartridge filter masks are best for the fumes, but if youre cheap and don't care TOO much for your lungs, particulate masks will do.
<o></o>
I feel like I'm missing something here, so I may end up come back to this eventually, but that looks about all.
<o></o>
So, without further dookie cakes, let's do this!
<o></o>
1. So here is your car. . . you've decided to clearcoat it, but don't want to do an entire paintjob. Proceed by first cleaning your car thoroughly. Wash. No waxing needed here.
<o></o>
2. Give your car a good solid once over with wax and grease remover. First of all, you're taking out all the impurities, grit, wax, grease and grime from your paintjob. Less of that is always a good thing, but foremost, you'll get less gummed up sandpaper, and won't be forcing the dirt further into your paintjob. . . thus causing problems in the future. Use the lint free paper towels. First wet down a small 3 to 4 foot area, and don't be afraid to get a good amount on. Wipe it down first with a fresh cloth, then, with another fresh cloth wipe the remaining liquid off until your area is completely dry. Continue this process until all areas you will be painting are completely clean of dirt and whatever remaining wax may be on your paintjob.
<o></o>
3. Now you're about to sand. Remember to stay away from your headlights, windows, and basically anything that isn't getting clearcoated. And a good rule of thumb is to use masking tape at the sides of whatever comes against whatever you're painting. I.E. headlights, rear view mirrors, any plastic or chrome moldings or bumpers, etc.
<o></o>
4. Now you're ready for some sanding action! Don't just jump into it, though. First, take in mind that you're CUTTING your clearcoat. Don't press too hard. If you press too hard, you will first of all deform the metal underneath the sander, and create low and high spots that you WILL notice in the final product. So take these steps into consideration when using your DA sander, and even hand sanding.
a. Use a slight crisscross pattern with your sanding. You'll create a more even surface. And YES, even though you'll be using a high and small grit of sandpaper, the discerning eye will still be able to tell the difference.
b. Sand WITH the curves of your car. Don't square off your edges. If you sand back and forth going with the direction of the curves of your car, you will create flat spots that you WILL notice. Your hood curves downward at the front? Well then sand from the top of the hood down towards the ground. Catch my drift?
c. When using your d/a sander, stay away from edges, moldings, creases, body lines, and anything that isn't flat enough to sand with the DA surface flat against your car from one side of the DA to the other.
<o></o>
5. Wootz! Now you can sand. Sorta. So take your DA, slap on your sandpaper, and wet down an area of your car that's workable. Usually a four foot section, or a single panel is a good start. Get it good and wet, and don't be afraid to get wet when you start sanding, cuz it'll spray you! Now pay attention to your new sanding guidelines, and just worry about deglossing the surface. No need to take it down to the actually paint. If you do, as long as you don't go THROUGH the paint to the primer, you're good. Be careful, though. And keep the surface wet. If it gets sticky or powdery, it's certainyl NOT wet enough.
Don't be afraid to wash off all the sanding gunk every once in a while to make sure you're not going too far, or make sure the surface is deglossed well enough. Repeat this until all the surfaces flat enough to be DA sanded are deglossed.
<o></o>
6. Now for the tedious part. Hand sanding. At this point, all you need to do is get a few edges, crevices, and body lines, so no "blocking" is needed. Just wet down the surface, and degloss as best as you can. And when you finish all of this, hose off the car as best as you can. Now, check around to see if there are any places that aren't deglossed well enough, and take your scotch brite pad and give them a solid going over until it's done.
<o></o>
Boomshakalakka. . . Now you're almost ready to paint!
<o></o>
But. . .
<o></o>
7. Give your car another hose down, and then give it a GOOD once over with the wax and grease remover again.
<o></o>
8. Time to pull your car into the garage, and finish the last part of that plastic sealing and filter procedure.
<o></o>
9. Now is the time for complete attention to detail. Mask off ANYTHING that isn't getting painted. Use your masking paper or plastic, and make sure you tape every little edge and press the tape down to prevent any overspray from entering anything. Tape down any loose masking that will flap in the spray. And make sure to tape and mask your tires and inner wheel wells.
<o></o>
10. Now here's something that you don't HAVE to do, but helps a LOT. Believe it or not, wetting down the floor will attract any remaining dust in the air, and also absorb any overspray. If you don't think you're careful enough to avoid splashing or stomping the water as you glide by, this isn't completely necessary. In the long run, it'll help prevent a lot of the dirt in your air from contaminating your paintjob.
<o></o>
11. Almost there. . . finally. Get out your tack rags and gently glide them over your surface until you've gone over the entire car. If you press too hard you'll deposit wax onto your paint job. NOT good. Start up your fans, start up the air compressor and get ready because:
<o></o>
12. ALMOST paint time. HAH. Gotchya. You haven't mixed the paint yet, freak! Now get out your container and pour out about enough to fill your paint gun cup. Remember, each half inch increment is 1 "part". Your paint will need hardner, and reducer, both in the amount of "parts" illustrated on the clearcoat can. Typically a ten to 1 to 1 mixture. So pour according to parts in the correct configuration, then mist it THOROUGHLY! But. . . don't stir so hard that you create bubbles in the paint. Bubbles are no good. Nooo goooood. Now pour your paint into the gun, hook up your hose, and put on your mask!
<o></o>
Can you feel the excitement??
<o></o>
13. Now calm the hell down. Visualize your paint being pristine and super smooth. . .
Set the PSI at your airgun to 25 to 30, and set the trigger forward enough that it's not at full throttle when you're pulling the trigger back fully.
<o></o>
Best way to create a fully smooth job is to take it a small bit at a time. Again. . . three to four foot sections. Start with your ROOF. Otherwise, the overspray will stick to the fresh clearcoat on the sides.
<o></o>
First you want to give it a light "drop coat". Keep the gun 15 to 20 inches away and spray a light enough coat that it looks like it's juuuust barely covering the surface. Do the entire panel this way, and make sure to overlap your previous line of paint about 70 percent. Yes, 70 percent OVERLAP.
<o></o>
Then you want to do the same thing to the next section.
<o></o>
Then, go back to the previous section and give it a medium coat 6 to 10 inches from the surface. If it looks thick and extra glossy, watch out, you'll be getting runs soon! Remember your overlaps. . . and be consistent! Same speed, same length, same pull on the trigger.
<o></o>
Go to the next panel without any clearcoat and give it your 15 to 20 inch drop coat.
<o></o>
Then, go back to the second pane with the same medium 6 to ten inch coat as the first panel.
<o></o>
Consistency! Don't get too slow, and don't EVER pause ON the panel.
<o></o>
Continue this process until you've got your car all covered with the medium coat.
<o></o>
Then, with the same medium coat, give your car another coat, section by section. No more drop coats otherwise you'll create orange peel.
<o></o>
You can continue giving it up to three extra coats of paint if you would like a buttload of clear on it, but in between each TWO coats wait an hour to an hour and a half. That means, after the light drop coat, and the two medium coats, wait an hour or so, then with two more, wait an hour or so, then do the last if you must. But this isnt' neccesary with a flat paint job, and getting too thick will ruin the properties of your clearcoat.
<o></o>
More isnt' always better.
<o></o>
<o></o>
-NOW. . . wait overnight before even TOUCHING it.
-Wait at least 24 hours before driving it.
-Wait at LEAST 48 hours before running water over it.
-Wait at least 48 hours before buffing it.
Your paint job should be nice and shiny, but if you want a true showroom finish, you need to wait until it's hard enough before buffing it.
<o></o>
-Wait at least 30 days before hand washing. You can run water over it, and it's preferred that you gently hose off any bird droppings, etc. Because we all know that as soon as you wash, buff, or freshly paint your car, birds ALWAYS take a notice, and seem to get a better aim.
<o></o>
-Wait at least !60! days before even THINKING about taking it through an automatic car wash. . . even though I'd suggest NEVER doing this to a paint job, some people are lazy, and sometimes even the non lazy people need a clean car but are pressed for time.
-For the next 30 days, it's advisable to keep your car in shaded areas, and DON'T wax your car for the next WEEK.
Now. . . your car is nawice! Step back, and admire your work in the sunshine. Sweet baby. Mmm.
Coming soon, I will be posting a tutorial on getting a nice regular or metallic color paint job. However it is 4 a.m., and I'm tired. So please. . . no more. Make it stop.
How to make your baby shine, the way it was meant to, without having a complete paintjob.
<o>
</o>
By Grrarr.
<o>
</o>
First and foremost, allow me to preface this tutorial by letting you know one crucial thing. . . :
If you do not follow these steps very closely, you could very well ruin your clearcoats UV protective ability, it’s adhesion to your paintjob, and mainly just make a bad situation seem CLEAR-ly worse. ZING.
<o></o>
<o></o>
There are many ways to paint a car, and every single person, after a little trial and error can find their own way, and their own “comfort zone” holding a spray gun, so feel free to eventually change a few things around to suit your style if you’re doing more than just the occasional clearcoat to your own vehicle. However, there are guidelines that must NOT be changed in order to create a solid, worthwhile paintjob. If you are setting out on your own and would like a few tips on what steps here you shouldn’t be deviating from, feel free to ask me! But if you don’t listen, and get a crappy paintjob, don’t come crying to me!
<o></o>
Take in mind that after you finish your clearcoat, if you want a showroom shine, you'll have to refer to my buffing tutorial. . . So if you're going for the best shine you can, read both this tutorial and that one before choosing this as an option.
<o></o>
Now. . . here’s what you will need to get your clearcoat done and done:
<o></o>
1. Either buy or rent an air compressor, making sure that it is capable of supplying at least 12CFM (cubic feet per minute), and 50 to 60 PSI (Pounds per square inch). And make sure that the air that will be pumped into it is filtered!
2. A Gravity fed automotive clearcoat spraygun. (Yes, there's a difference between a clearcoat gun and a regular paint gun, the details of which you can ask me about if you wish)
3. Tack cloths (Most likely available at your auto supply store)
4. Whatever brand of Urethane enamel clearcoat you prefer, along with the required reducer and hardener. This is often a 10 to 1 to 1 mixture or so, so you won't need as much hardener and reducer as your clear.
5. 600 to 800 grit sand paper for both a d/a sander and handsanding. And a pack of 3m scotch brite pads, red is preferred, but grey will do. Most people prefer wetsanding paper, but either wet or dry is good. Any debate on this issue is simply debate, and a style based preference. But for this tutorial, get the wetsanding paper. It'll gum up less often, need changed less often, and though you'll need to completely dry the car afterwards, wet sanding is more forgiving, so you don’t' need to be good at sanding. 800 grit is preferred, though you'll need to degloss the area COMPLETELY.
6. A D/A sander. Air powered is better than electric. This is also rentable at your local parts store often.
7. Lint free paper towels.
8. Wax and grease remover.
9. A clean plastic container to mix your paint in, with half inch marks up the side. You can do this with a ruler, but some times containers come with these already.
10. A material that resists paint to use to mask off parts that you don't want painted. Masking paper, thin plastic, etc. . . No saran wrap, people. . . please. Wanna find out why? Why would you want to find out why?? Freak.
11. AUTOMOTIVE masking tape. I repeat. AUTOMOTIVE. If you use house paint masking tape, you'll be kicking yourself after the clearcoat goes straight through the tape and dissolves the adhesive, and you end up with a sticky mess that clouds, hardens, and is just a piece of work. . .
12. Razors! Yes, you're clumsy. So be careful, son! No turning back now!
Most crucial:
13. A clean, as dust free as possible place to spray. NO sanding in this area. NO. That's a bad greasemonkey! For those of you with a garage but no spray booth, attempt to rent time in a spray booth at a local place with a spray booth if possible. This will make things extra easy.
However if you do not have this luxury, follow these steps:
-1. Cover everything in your garage with 1 mil plastic availible at lowes, home depot, etc., EVEN your floor, windows, everything but the door to get yout car -in.
-2. Get four particulate box type filters, two box fans.
-3. Set two of your your filters into a window onto your plastic and trace around both, remove filters, cut about an inch in from the lines in the center of -your trace lines, and then put the filters back up and tape them onto your plastic AND the window so they stay there firmly.
-4. When your car is prepped and ready (I will say later when you've reached this step), pull in your car, put both bow fans down at both sides of the garage -door upright and blowing outwards from your garage, put your garage door down until it's resting lightly onto the fans.
-5. take more plastic and tape is around the entire garage opening FIRMLY. Don't skimp.
-6. place your remaining box filters in front of the box fans, and repeat the tracing process, and the cutting process. Then tape them to the fans FIRMLY, -and tape the plastic to the outside of your filters also FIRMLY. Voila! Instant temporary spray booth.
14. Get a face mask. Dual cartridge filter masks are best for the fumes, but if youre cheap and don't care TOO much for your lungs, particulate masks will do.
<o></o>
I feel like I'm missing something here, so I may end up come back to this eventually, but that looks about all.
<o></o>
So, without further dookie cakes, let's do this!
<o></o>
1. So here is your car. . . you've decided to clearcoat it, but don't want to do an entire paintjob. Proceed by first cleaning your car thoroughly. Wash. No waxing needed here.
<o></o>
2. Give your car a good solid once over with wax and grease remover. First of all, you're taking out all the impurities, grit, wax, grease and grime from your paintjob. Less of that is always a good thing, but foremost, you'll get less gummed up sandpaper, and won't be forcing the dirt further into your paintjob. . . thus causing problems in the future. Use the lint free paper towels. First wet down a small 3 to 4 foot area, and don't be afraid to get a good amount on. Wipe it down first with a fresh cloth, then, with another fresh cloth wipe the remaining liquid off until your area is completely dry. Continue this process until all areas you will be painting are completely clean of dirt and whatever remaining wax may be on your paintjob.
<o></o>
3. Now you're about to sand. Remember to stay away from your headlights, windows, and basically anything that isn't getting clearcoated. And a good rule of thumb is to use masking tape at the sides of whatever comes against whatever you're painting. I.E. headlights, rear view mirrors, any plastic or chrome moldings or bumpers, etc.
<o></o>
4. Now you're ready for some sanding action! Don't just jump into it, though. First, take in mind that you're CUTTING your clearcoat. Don't press too hard. If you press too hard, you will first of all deform the metal underneath the sander, and create low and high spots that you WILL notice in the final product. So take these steps into consideration when using your DA sander, and even hand sanding.
a. Use a slight crisscross pattern with your sanding. You'll create a more even surface. And YES, even though you'll be using a high and small grit of sandpaper, the discerning eye will still be able to tell the difference.
b. Sand WITH the curves of your car. Don't square off your edges. If you sand back and forth going with the direction of the curves of your car, you will create flat spots that you WILL notice. Your hood curves downward at the front? Well then sand from the top of the hood down towards the ground. Catch my drift?
c. When using your d/a sander, stay away from edges, moldings, creases, body lines, and anything that isn't flat enough to sand with the DA surface flat against your car from one side of the DA to the other.
<o></o>
5. Wootz! Now you can sand. Sorta. So take your DA, slap on your sandpaper, and wet down an area of your car that's workable. Usually a four foot section, or a single panel is a good start. Get it good and wet, and don't be afraid to get wet when you start sanding, cuz it'll spray you! Now pay attention to your new sanding guidelines, and just worry about deglossing the surface. No need to take it down to the actually paint. If you do, as long as you don't go THROUGH the paint to the primer, you're good. Be careful, though. And keep the surface wet. If it gets sticky or powdery, it's certainyl NOT wet enough.
Don't be afraid to wash off all the sanding gunk every once in a while to make sure you're not going too far, or make sure the surface is deglossed well enough. Repeat this until all the surfaces flat enough to be DA sanded are deglossed.
<o></o>
6. Now for the tedious part. Hand sanding. At this point, all you need to do is get a few edges, crevices, and body lines, so no "blocking" is needed. Just wet down the surface, and degloss as best as you can. And when you finish all of this, hose off the car as best as you can. Now, check around to see if there are any places that aren't deglossed well enough, and take your scotch brite pad and give them a solid going over until it's done.
<o></o>
Boomshakalakka. . . Now you're almost ready to paint!
<o></o>
But. . .
<o></o>
7. Give your car another hose down, and then give it a GOOD once over with the wax and grease remover again.
<o></o>
8. Time to pull your car into the garage, and finish the last part of that plastic sealing and filter procedure.
<o></o>
9. Now is the time for complete attention to detail. Mask off ANYTHING that isn't getting painted. Use your masking paper or plastic, and make sure you tape every little edge and press the tape down to prevent any overspray from entering anything. Tape down any loose masking that will flap in the spray. And make sure to tape and mask your tires and inner wheel wells.
<o></o>
10. Now here's something that you don't HAVE to do, but helps a LOT. Believe it or not, wetting down the floor will attract any remaining dust in the air, and also absorb any overspray. If you don't think you're careful enough to avoid splashing or stomping the water as you glide by, this isn't completely necessary. In the long run, it'll help prevent a lot of the dirt in your air from contaminating your paintjob.
<o></o>
11. Almost there. . . finally. Get out your tack rags and gently glide them over your surface until you've gone over the entire car. If you press too hard you'll deposit wax onto your paint job. NOT good. Start up your fans, start up the air compressor and get ready because:
<o></o>
12. ALMOST paint time. HAH. Gotchya. You haven't mixed the paint yet, freak! Now get out your container and pour out about enough to fill your paint gun cup. Remember, each half inch increment is 1 "part". Your paint will need hardner, and reducer, both in the amount of "parts" illustrated on the clearcoat can. Typically a ten to 1 to 1 mixture. So pour according to parts in the correct configuration, then mist it THOROUGHLY! But. . . don't stir so hard that you create bubbles in the paint. Bubbles are no good. Nooo goooood. Now pour your paint into the gun, hook up your hose, and put on your mask!
<o></o>
Can you feel the excitement??
<o></o>
13. Now calm the hell down. Visualize your paint being pristine and super smooth. . .
Set the PSI at your airgun to 25 to 30, and set the trigger forward enough that it's not at full throttle when you're pulling the trigger back fully.
<o></o>
Best way to create a fully smooth job is to take it a small bit at a time. Again. . . three to four foot sections. Start with your ROOF. Otherwise, the overspray will stick to the fresh clearcoat on the sides.
<o></o>
First you want to give it a light "drop coat". Keep the gun 15 to 20 inches away and spray a light enough coat that it looks like it's juuuust barely covering the surface. Do the entire panel this way, and make sure to overlap your previous line of paint about 70 percent. Yes, 70 percent OVERLAP.
<o></o>
Then you want to do the same thing to the next section.
<o></o>
Then, go back to the previous section and give it a medium coat 6 to 10 inches from the surface. If it looks thick and extra glossy, watch out, you'll be getting runs soon! Remember your overlaps. . . and be consistent! Same speed, same length, same pull on the trigger.
<o></o>
Go to the next panel without any clearcoat and give it your 15 to 20 inch drop coat.
<o></o>
Then, go back to the second pane with the same medium 6 to ten inch coat as the first panel.
<o></o>
Consistency! Don't get too slow, and don't EVER pause ON the panel.
<o></o>
Continue this process until you've got your car all covered with the medium coat.
<o></o>
Then, with the same medium coat, give your car another coat, section by section. No more drop coats otherwise you'll create orange peel.
<o></o>
You can continue giving it up to three extra coats of paint if you would like a buttload of clear on it, but in between each TWO coats wait an hour to an hour and a half. That means, after the light drop coat, and the two medium coats, wait an hour or so, then with two more, wait an hour or so, then do the last if you must. But this isnt' neccesary with a flat paint job, and getting too thick will ruin the properties of your clearcoat.
<o></o>
More isnt' always better.
<o></o>
<o></o>
-NOW. . . wait overnight before even TOUCHING it.
-Wait at least 24 hours before driving it.
-Wait at LEAST 48 hours before running water over it.
-Wait at least 48 hours before buffing it.
Your paint job should be nice and shiny, but if you want a true showroom finish, you need to wait until it's hard enough before buffing it.
<o></o>
-Wait at least 30 days before hand washing. You can run water over it, and it's preferred that you gently hose off any bird droppings, etc. Because we all know that as soon as you wash, buff, or freshly paint your car, birds ALWAYS take a notice, and seem to get a better aim.
<o></o>
-Wait at least !60! days before even THINKING about taking it through an automatic car wash. . . even though I'd suggest NEVER doing this to a paint job, some people are lazy, and sometimes even the non lazy people need a clean car but are pressed for time.
-For the next 30 days, it's advisable to keep your car in shaded areas, and DON'T wax your car for the next WEEK.
Now. . . your car is nawice! Step back, and admire your work in the sunshine. Sweet baby. Mmm.
Coming soon, I will be posting a tutorial on getting a nice regular or metallic color paint job. However it is 4 a.m., and I'm tired. So please. . . no more. Make it stop.